The Saudi Bolting Project is the first major initiative of the recently created Saudi Climbing Federation. The Project: to professionally equip the first major sport climbing sites in Saudi Arabia.
To the uninitiated, discussions of Saudi Arabia conjure imagery of arid desert landscapes, camels and perhaps also a harsh people. Read knows better, having lived next door in Oman for 9 years. When the Saudi Climbing Federation approached him to lead a team of equippers he was very excited.
Along with us “Team Explore Climbing” – Read and Alex, we had accomplished climbers and great people, Piergiorgio Lotito A.Guida Alpina, and A.Guida Alpina and Explore Climbing athlete Carlo Giuliberti – the team’s rope gun.
We had the privilege to call two spectacular locations “home” for the whole month of November. We lived above 2,000m for the entire time. The environment was much greener than expected, the temperature moderate, the wildlife intriguing and the rock is world-class.
The people me met and befriended were kind, full of hospitality and eager to share the culture and history of their home. Highlights: breakfast with a Prince, picnic dinner with local friends insistent on showing us new climbing potential, breakfast on-the-house at the best falafal restaurant in Saudi Arabia, Egyptian pizzas from a good friend. Arabic hospitality is alive and well!
The first location, Al Shafa, near Taif which is approximately 200km east and south of Jeddah, is a pinnacle of golden granite. Tall, technical climbs on perfect stone. At 2,300m the weather was alpine, cool, windy and prone to afternoon storms. European! During ten days we established 38 lines from 4 to 8a, including some immaculate cracks, which were left natural for the future trad climbing scene.
The second location, Tanomah, is located nearly 500km south of Taif is a sandstone paradise. Full of highly featured walls, with easy access; perfect for routes in all grades. Such was our enthusiasm that we equipped 26 pitches in the first four days in Tanomah! Now there are over 50 climbs from 4 to 8b on brilliant red sandstone slabs and slightly overhanging walls up to 50m high.
What we experienced is just a fraction of the high quality climbing potential in the southwest of the country and so we hope that it will soon be possible for foreign visitors to explore there, too.
A huge thanks to the Saudi Climbing Federation for this opportunity, to material support from Grivel, E9 and OtticaTrova and also to our new friends in Saudi Arabia. We hope to return to climb soon!
Carlo has written a small piece for Planet Mountain. You can check it out below
